Cosmetic crusader

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Catherine Griss's team at Kuush can be reached on 8557 6999 or www.kuush.com

TETRASODIUM EDTA, otherwise known as;
• edetic acid
• Ethylenediaminetetraacetate
• edetate disodium
• disodium salt acetic acid
• [n- (carboxymethyl) - disodium salt

Purpose: penetration enhancer ��" alters skin structure, allows other chemicals to penetrate deeper into the skin.
Can be found in: hair shampoo and conditioner, hair colours, soap bars, SPF products, facial products including cleansers, moisturisers and the like.
Concerns: in studies on animals, it has been shown to cause a mutation in the cells, brain/nervous system effects even at low doses, disruption to the endocrine system, reproductive effects and broad systemic effects.

SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE, also may be listed as;

• SLS
• sodium dodecyl sulfate
• sulfuric acid
• monododecyl ester
• sodium salt
• sodium salt sulfuric acid
• monododecyl ester
• monododecyl ester sodium salt sulfuric acid
• sodium lauryl sulfate
• sodium dodecyl sulphate
• sulfuric acid monododecyl ester sodium salt

This ingredient may be passed off as (coconut oil) or (derived from palm oil) or similar. This is merely to lull the consumer into a false sense of security. It has undergone so much chemical processing that it does not represent anything natural and no longer has any good properties.

Purpose: a cheap foaming agent, creating lather.

Can be found in: hair shampoo, hair colours, toothpaste, teeth whitening products, body wash, facial washes and scrubs, facial cleansers and so on.

Concerns: in animal studies it has shown to have a negative effect on the reproductive system, endocrine system, the brain/nervous system, and cells have shown positive mutation results. It has also been found to affect the proteins of the eyes and is thought to be able to cause permanent damage to young children whose eyesight is still developing. There is strong evidence to suggest that this ingredient is an irritant to humans.

SODIUM LAURETH SULPHATE, also be listed as;
• SLES
• dodecyl sodium sulfate

• peg- (1-4) lauryl ether sulfate

• sodium salt

• polyethylene glycol (1-4) lauryl ether sulfate

• poly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), a -sulfo-w (dodecyloxy)

• polyoxyethylene (1-4) lauryl ether sulfate

• sodium peg lauryl ether sulfate

• sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether sulfate

• sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl sulfate

sodium salt peg- (1-4) lauryl ether sulfate

This ingredient may be passed off as (coconut oil) or (derived from palm oil) or similar. This is merely to lull the consumer into a false sense of security. It has undergone so much chemical processing that it does not represent anything natural and no longer has any good properties.

Purpose: another cheap foaming agent, used to cause lather.
Can be found in: shampoo, hair colour, body wash, bubble bath, facial cleansers, dandruff and other scalp treatments, hand wash and more.
Concerns: it is shown to be an irritant to eyes, skin, and lungs.

TRIETHANOLAMINE, commonly known as TEA.
Purpose: surfactant (detergent cleanser), emulsifier (an agent that mixes unblendable ingredients), pH adjuster, masking.

Can be found in: styling gels and lotions, sunscreens, facial products including moisturisers, eye creams, cleansers, lip creams and foundations and more.

Concerns: this ingredient is considered highly hazardous and according to the United States National Library of Medicine, triethanolamine is a known human toxicant. In animal studies it has been shown to irritate the skin and cause disruption to the endocrine system. It has tested positive for cell mutation and therefore thought to be a carcinogen. TEA has increased the weight of the bladder and caused kidney/renal system tumour formations. Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology 1971 and 1980 found it to be a skin and eye irritant in animal studies.

Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments found this ingredient to be a skin sensitiser, which can cause blistering of the skin, redness, and itching, burning and scaly skin. It may also cause allergic reactions to the lungs.

COCOMIDE DEA, also be listed as;
• cocamide dea
• diethanolamide
• coconut fatty acid,
• DEA

Although cocamide DEA is a mixture of organic chemical compounds of coconut acid from coconut oil, it has undergone much chemical processing and is not the innocent coconut oil it once was. This is the part that some manufacturers may use to lull the consumer into a false sense of security as you often see an ingredient like cocamide DEA followed by brackets as such: (derived from coconut oil). This all sounds wonderful but if the name is no longer just coconut oil, then you know its chemical structure has been altered and by doing that, it no longer represents the original ingredient or has the same benefits it once did.

Purpose: surfactant, foam booster, emulsifying, viscosity (thickness) increasing agent.

Can be found in: shampoos, dandruff and other scalp treatments, hair colour and bleach, hair relaxer, bubble bath, hand wash, exfoliants and more.

Concerns: immunotoxicity (adverse affects on the immune system resulting from chemical exposure), allergies, cancer, contamination concerns with nitrosamine (harmful impurities), and a skin irritant.

The Journal of the American College of Toxicology 1996 lists the following effects obtained from animal studies: changes in liver and bladder weight, changes in lung weight, renal failure, dermatitis, skin and eye irritant, kidney/renal tumours and liver tumors.

FRAGRANCE can be obtained from essential oils or from mixing certain chemicals together to achieve a certain aroma. Fragrance may be a skin irritant and as such, some consumers opt for fragrance-free products. It is important to note here that even fragrance-free products contain fragrance. For example, when soaps are made, whether bars or liquid, it really has an offensive odour. Fragrance-free means actually adding a fragrance to such a level where the pungent smell is no longer able to be detected.

Purpose: to neutralise odours, to induce a feeling, to trademark a brand or product, and in general to sell product because consumers on the whole enjoy products that have a fragrance of some type.

Can be found in: all types of hair products from shampoo, conditioner, hair colours and treatments, hair masks, hair oils and lotions, anti-frizz, hair relaxers, hair, face and body moisturisers, and all types of body care pro

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